MAKES 2 QUARTS

Longtime SAVEUR contributor Christopher Hirsheimer learned this recipe from a Roman restaurateur, Jane Mariani, who advised her to use an old hen—the older the bird, she said, the better the flavor. Your basic chicken, however, makes a fine stock for many diverse dishes.

1  3-lb. chicken
2 carrots, peeled and roughly chopped
2 stalks celery
1 medium yellow onion, peeled
6 black peppercorns

1. Place chicken, carrots, celery, onion, and peppercorns in a large stockpot with 3 quarts water. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat.

2. Reduce heat to low and simmer, uncovered, 2–3 hours, skimming foam occasionally. (After 1 hour of cooking, you may remove chicken, pick meat from the bones to reserve for another use, and return carcass to the pot.) Remove from heat and strain.