The Guide: Transylvania

Transylvania is a four-hour drive from Bucharest, Romania’s capital. For help planning your trip, contact Romania Tourism (romaniatourism.com) and the Adept Foundation (fundatia-adept.org).

Where to Stay

Casa Wagner Piaţa Cetăţii 7, Sighişoara (40/265/506-014). Rates $120 double. On the main square in Sighişoara, this pleasant hotel is a good base for exploring the Saxon villages of Transylvania.

Count Kalnoky's Estate_ 186 Strada Principală, Miklosvar (40/742/202-586). Rates: $190 double._ At these beautiful guesthouses, meals run to traditional dishes like ciorbă de perisoare (pork-and-rice meatball soup).

Mihai Eminescu Trust Guesthouses_ 10 Strada Cojocarilor, Sighişoara (40/754/212-372). Rates: $40 per person_. The MET rents cottages in rural villages, with the option to order in meals from home cooks, or to dine with local families.

Where to Eat

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Casa cu Cerb Strada Şcolii 1, Sighişoara (40/265/774-625). Moderate. The "House of the Stag" serves excellent Romanian dishes, including mămăligă (a coarse polenta) and stewed chicken.

Gerda Gherghiceanu's Farmhouse Restaurant_ Strada Principala 22, Viscri (40/741/009-889). Moderate._ Gherghiceanu serves terrific home-style Saxon cooking—crepes with her own jams, hearty stews—in the courtyard of her farmhouse.

Unglerus Restaurant_ Strada Decembrie 1, Biertan (40/269/806-699). Moderate._ This restaurant is famous for its Biertan platter, a spread of skinless sausages called mititei and other grilled meats.