I'll never forget the tuna melt I used to have at the Woolworth's lunch counter on King Street in Charleston, South Carolina: buttered white bread, browned to a crisp on a flattop grill; freshly made tuna salad dotted with diced celery and Georgia sweet onions; American cheese melting out the sides of the sandwich; and a side of Lay's potato chips and slices of bread-and-butter pickles. I've re-created that classic tuna melt at home, and I've also made lots of other variations using different kinds of bread, cheese, and condiments. The results are always tasty. (See ** Tuna Melt Canapes**.) —_Warren Bobrow, Morristown, New Jersey _