Mullen kicked off the night with marinated cucumber that was cut into strips, wrapped around a fork, and dollop-ed with labne, then a sunchoke veloute with housemade wild boar lardons, served in a small coffee cup. Finally, diners munched on a tangle of smoked shrimp and pineapple on sticks, the feelers and legs and eyes still intact. Once everyone had burned through the appetizers, they ate a beautifully plated cured cobia with blood orange, then a salad with enormous persimmon cross-sections. The main course was a perfectly smoked chicken, sliced over romesco sauce and vegetables.