Tamales de Chipilín
Salsa-filled parcels of masa are studded with verdant chipilín leaves and steamed to supple perfection.
- Makes
25–30 tamales
- Time
3 hours
Ricardo Hernández Arellano and his family have been offering Chiapaneco specialties with an emphasis on seasonal ingredients at their San Cristóbal de las Casas restaurant, Belil, for a decade. Chipilín leaves are worked directly into the tamale dough, creating a tie-dye effect after steaming. In Chiapas, tamales are always served at weddings, baptisms, parties, and family gatherings and, in and of themselves, are a reason to celebrate. It’s common in southern Mexico to wrap tamales in banana leaves, which impart a subtle, grassy aroma that complements the chipilín, but some cooks still opt for dried corn husks, which are widely available. The amount of stock required will vary depending on the type of masa used, so it’s best to work by feel. The dough should be moist and spreadable but only slightly sticky; it will firm up as the tamales steam. Fresh masa can be prepared from dried and nixtamalized field corn, or purchased from Mexican or Central American markets. Some retailers, including Tortilleria Nixtamal, offer shipping for online orders. Leftover tamales can be frozen for up to a month before they are steamed, and cooked right before serving.
Featured in "Searching for Sopa de Chipilín" by Scarlett Lindeman in the Fall/Winter 2024 issue.
Ingredients
For the tamales:
- 4½ lb. fresh corn masa
- 1 cup room-temperature chicken or vegetable stock, plus more as needed
- 3 large bunches (24 oz.) fresh chipilín leaves, or 18 oz. frozen
- 2 lb. frozen banana leaves, thawed, cut into 13-in. squares or 30 medium corn husks, soaked 1 hour and drained
- 2 tsp. kosher salt
- Queso fresco, crumbled
- Mexican-style crema, or sour cream
For the salsa roja:
- 5 small tomatoes (1¼ lb.)
- 1 peeled and quartered medium white onion (8 oz.)
- 1 Tbsp. thyme leaves or cilantro
- 1 garlic clove
- Kosher salt
- 1 cup of vegetable oil
Instructions
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- In a large bowl, stir together the masa and the stock; using your hands, knead until a sticky dough forms. (If the dough is crumbly, stir in 2 tablespoons of stock at a time until pliable.) Cover and set aside for 45 minutes.
- Meanwhile, make the salsa roja: Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Add the tomatoes and onion and boil until they start to soften, about 5 minutes. Drain using a colander, then transfer to a blender. Add thyme or cilantro and garlic and purée, 15–30 seconds, then season with salt to taste. Wipe the pot dry, return it to the stove, and turn the heat to medium. Add the vegetable oil, and when it’s hot and shimmering, add the tomato mixture and cook, stirring frequently, until bubbling and reduced slightly, about 10 minutes. Remove from the heat, and set aside.
- If using fresh chipilín, strip the leaves from their stems and discard the stems. Rinse the leaves, pat dry with paper towels, and set aside. If using frozen, thaw, drain the leaves, squeeze to remove any excess moisture, and set aside.
- If using banana leaves, directly over a gas burner, heat the leaves, turning once, until pliable and glossy, 5–10 seconds per side. (Alternatively, place the leaves on a plate and microwave 5–10 seconds per side.) Set aside to cool for 5 minutes.
- To the masa dough, add the chipilín leaves and salt, and knead in the bowl until the dough is moist, spreadable, and only slightly sticky. If the dough is too dry, knead in more stock ½ cup at a time. In the center of one banana leaf or corn husk, place ⅓ cup of dough and shape it into a 4- by 2-inch rectangle. Spread with 1 tablespoon of the salsa roja. Fold two opposite sides of the banana leaf over the filling, then fold the open ends under to seal. (If using corn husks, use a strip of husk to tie the open end of the tamale.) Repeat with the remaining banana leaves, masa, and filling.
- In a large pot filled with 3 inches of water, place a steamer basket (it should not touch the surface of the water). Snugly arrange the tamales vertically in the basket; use a second pot and basket for any that don’t fit, or steam the tamales in batches. Bring the water to a boil, cover the pot, and turn the heat to low to barely simmer. Steam until the tamale dough is springy and opaque, adding more water as needed, about 1 hour 30 minutes. Serve warm, with queso fresco and crema on the side.
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