Recipes
Pfeffernüsse Chiffon Cake with Red Wine Glaze
Inspired by the classic German cookie, this light, airy dessert is redolent with warm spices.
- Makes
One 8- or 9-inch cake
- Time
1 hour 15 minutes, plus cooling
Despite being one of Germany’s most popular treats, pfeffernüsse, which translates to “pepper nuts,” have yet to receive their due in the U.S., even during holiday cookie season. Hannah Ziskin, the pastry chef at Los Angeles pizza parlor Quarter Sheets, was first introduced to the fragrant spice cookies by her dad, who spent much of his youth in Germany, and she’s been proselytizing for them ever since. Her riff on the classic cookie is, in fact, not a cookie at all, but rather a light, airy chiffon cake that plays up the warm, inviting spices of the original dessert. Since pfeffernüsse are often served with glühwein (mulled wine) in Germany, Ziskin decided to top her cake with a tart red wine glaze and slivers of candied citrus and ginger. It makes for a striking holiday party centerpiece—and a perfect morning-after snack.
Ingredients
For the cake:
- ½ cup (113 g) all-purpose flour
- ¼ cup plus 2 Tbsp. (27 g) superfine almond flour
- 1¾ tsp. ground cinnamon
- 1¼ tsp. baking powder
- 1¼ tsp. ground cloves
- 1¼ tsp. freshly grated nutmeg
- 1¼ tsp. freshly ground black pepper
- ¾ tsp. kosher salt
- ½ tsp. ground ginger
- 6 Tbsp. (63 g) vegetable oil
- 3 Tbsp. (36 g) light brown sugar
- 1 Tbsp. plus 1½ tsp. (36 g) honey
- 4 large egg yolks
- 1 tsp. (1.8 g) cream of tartar or tartaric acid
- 6 large egg whites
- ¼ cup plus 2 Tbsp. (86 g) sugar
For the red wine glaze:
- 1 cup (227 g) red wine
- 2 cups (230 g) confectioners sugar
- 3 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice (from 2 lemons)
- ½ tsp. (2 g) kosher salt
- Candied citrus peel or ginger, for garnish
- Lemon twists, for garnish (optional)
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Instructions
Step 1
Make the cake: Preheat the oven to 325°F. In a medium bowl, whisk together both flours, the cinnamon, baking powder, cloves, nutmeg, black pepper, salt, and ginger.
Step 2
In a second medium bowl, whisk together the oil, brown sugar, honey, egg yolks, and ½ cup of water. Sift the flour mixture into the yolk mixture and whisk well to combine. Set aside.
Step 3
To a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, add the cream of tartar and egg whites and beat on medium-high speed until the whites triple in volume (just before soft peaks), about 2 minutes. Slowly stream in the sugar and continue beating until stiff peaks form, about 2 minutes more.
Step 4
Whisk about one-third of the whites into the yolk mixture. Using a silicone spatula, fold in the remaining whites very gently to keep them from deflating, until no obvious streaks of whites are visible. Be careful not to overmix.
Step 5
Transfer the batter to an ungreased, unlined 8- or 9-inch tube pan. Bake, rotating the pan halfway through, until the cake springs back when touched lightly, 45–60 minutes (the 9-inch pan bakes faster than the 8-inch). Immediately invert the pan onto a work surface, placing the hollow part of the tube over a narrow jar or long-necked bottle (if your pan has feet, let it rest on the feet). Allow the cake to cool completely while upside down.
Step 6
To unmold the cake, turn the pan right side up, then run a sharp knife or offset spatula around the cake’s edge to loosen, angling the knife to avoid digging into the sides of the cake. Pull the central tube to lift the cake and pan base insert out of the pan, then run the knife around the central tube. Run the knife between the base of the cake and the insert to loosen, then invert the cake onto a serving plate and remove the insert. (If not serving immediately, wrap the cake tightly in plastic and set aside at room temperature for up to 24 hours.)
Step 7
Make the red wine glaze: In a small pot over medium heat, bring the wine to a simmer. Simmer, swirling the pot occasionally, until the wine reduces to about 2 tablespoons, about 30 minutes. Set aside to cool.
Step 8
Into a medium bowl, sift the confectioners sugar. Whisk in the lemon juice, salt, and reduced red wine until well incorporated. Slowly pour the glaze around the edges of the cake, then over the top. (Use all of the glaze.) Allow to set for about 5 minutes, then sprinkle the top of the cake with candied citrus peel or ginger, and if desired, lemon twists. Allow the glaze to set completely, about 1 hour. Using a serrated knife, cut into slices and serve.
- Make the cake: Preheat the oven to 325°F. In a medium bowl, whisk together both flours, the cinnamon, baking powder, cloves, nutmeg, black pepper, salt, and ginger.
- In a second medium bowl, whisk together the oil, brown sugar, honey, egg yolks, and ½ cup of water. Sift the flour mixture into the yolk mixture and whisk well to combine. Set aside.
- To a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, add the cream of tartar and egg whites and beat on medium-high speed until the whites triple in volume (just before soft peaks), about 2 minutes. Slowly stream in the sugar and continue beating until stiff peaks form, about 2 minutes more.
- Whisk about one-third of the whites into the yolk mixture. Using a silicone spatula, fold in the remaining whites very gently to keep them from deflating, until no obvious streaks of whites are visible. Be careful not to overmix.
- Transfer the batter to an ungreased, unlined 8- or 9-inch tube pan. Bake, rotating the pan halfway through, until the cake springs back when touched lightly, 45–60 minutes (the 9-inch pan bakes faster than the 8-inch). Immediately invert the pan onto a work surface, placing the hollow part of the tube over a narrow jar or long-necked bottle (if your pan has feet, let it rest on the feet). Allow the cake to cool completely while upside down.
- To unmold the cake, turn the pan right side up, then run a sharp knife or offset spatula around the cake’s edge to loosen, angling the knife to avoid digging into the sides of the cake. Pull the central tube to lift the cake and pan base insert out of the pan, then run the knife around the central tube. Run the knife between the base of the cake and the insert to loosen, then invert the cake onto a serving plate and remove the insert. (If not serving immediately, wrap the cake tightly in plastic and set aside at room temperature for up to 24 hours.)
- Make the red wine glaze: In a small pot over medium heat, bring the wine to a simmer. Simmer, swirling the pot occasionally, until the wine reduces to about 2 tablespoons, about 30 minutes. Set aside to cool.
- Into a medium bowl, sift the confectioners sugar. Whisk in the lemon juice, salt, and reduced red wine until well incorporated. Slowly pour the glaze around the edges of the cake, then over the top. (Use all of the glaze.) Allow to set for about 5 minutes, then sprinkle the top of the cake with candied citrus peel or ginger, and if desired, lemon twists. Allow the glaze to set completely, about 1 hour. Using a serrated knife, cut into slices and serve.
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