Papaya Verde en Escabeche (Pickled Green Papaya)

Name: Papaya Verde en Escabeche (Pickled Green Papaya)
Prep time: PT0D0H0M
Cook time: PT0D0H15M
Total time: PT0D0H15M
Yield: 2 quarts
Ingredients: 1 lb. unripe green papaya, peeled and cut into matchsticks; 5 medium carrots, peeled and thinly sliced; ½ cup olive oil; 3 garlic cloves, smashed slightly and peeled; 1 medium white onion, thinly sliced; 12 medium jalapeños, stemmed and thinly sliced; 1½ cups distilled white vinegar; 2 tsp. sugar; 1 tsp. kosher salt; ½ tsp. cumin seeds; ½ tsp. black peppercorns; ¼ tsp. dried Mexican oregano; 4 thyme sprigs; 1 bouillon cube

The vegetal unripe fruit is swapped in for jalapeños in this riff on the classic Mexican condiment.

Makes
2 quarts
Time
15 minutes, plus 4 hours refrigeration

PHOTO: MURRAY HALL • FOOD STYLING: THU BUSER

By Ingrid Merary Rodríguez Luna

Published on February 26, 2025

Ingrid Merary Rodríguez Luna serves this pickled condiment at her family’s bed-and-breakfast, Finca Vallescondido, 45 miles southeast of Palenque, Chiapas. It is the perfect home base from which to explore the region’s archaeological sites, and her meals—a mix of her native Nicaraguan and local Chiapaneco home cooking—are exceptional. Papaya trees dot their small cattle farm on which the property sits, so Rodríguez takes advantage of the vegetal unripe fruits in a twist on classic Mexican jalapeños en escabeche.

Featured in "Searching for Sopa de Chipilín" by Scarlett Lindeman in the Fall/Winter 2024 issue.

Ingredients

1 lb. unripe green papaya, peeled and cut into matchsticks
5 medium carrots, peeled and thinly sliced
½ cup olive oil
3 garlic cloves, smashed slightly and peeled
1 medium white onion, thinly sliced
12 medium jalapeños, stemmed and thinly sliced
1½ cups distilled white vinegar
2 tsp. sugar
1 tsp. kosher salt
½ tsp. cumin seeds
½ tsp. black peppercorns
¼ tsp. dried Mexican oregano
4 thyme sprigs
1 bouillon cube

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Instructions

Step 1

In a large pot of boiling water, cook the papaya until slightly softened, about 3 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to a large bowl. To the boiling water, add the carrots and cook until slightly softened, about 3 minutes. Transfer to the same bowl and set aside. Wipe out the pot and return it to the stove.

Step 2

To the clean pot over medium heat, add the oil. When it’s hot and shimmering, add the garlic and onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until slightly softened, 2–4 minutes. Transfer to the bowl with the papaya and carrots.

Step 3

To the pot, add the jalapeños and cook, stirring frequently, until slightly softened, 2–4 minutes. Add the reserved papaya, carrots, garlic, and onion, followed by the vinegar, sugar, salt, cumin, peppercorns, oregano, thyme, bouillon cube, and 2½ cups of water. Bring to a simmer and cook, just until the papaya, vegetables, and spices have infused into the pickling liquid, 2–3 minutes, then remove from the heat.

Step 4

Transfer the escabeche and its pickling liquid to a 2-quart jar or airtight container and refrigerate for at least 4 hours to let the flavors meld before serving. Refrigerated, escabeche keeps well for up to 1 month.

In a large pot of boiling water, cook the papaya until slightly softened, about 3 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to a large bowl. To the boiling water, add the carrots and cook until slightly softened, about 3 minutes. Transfer to the same bowl and set aside. Wipe out the pot and return it to the stove.
To the clean pot over medium heat, add the oil. When it’s hot and shimmering, add the garlic and onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until slightly softened, 2–4 minutes. Transfer to the bowl with the papaya and carrots.
To the pot, add the jalapeños and cook, stirring frequently, until slightly softened, 2–4 minutes. Add the reserved papaya, carrots, garlic, and onion, followed by the vinegar, sugar, salt, cumin, peppercorns, oregano, thyme, bouillon cube, and 2½ cups of water. Bring to a simmer and cook, just until the papaya, vegetables, and spices have infused into the pickling liquid, 2–3 minutes, then remove from the heat.
Transfer the escabeche and its pickling liquid to a 2-quart jar or airtight container and refrigerate for at least 4 hours to let the flavors meld before serving. Refrigerated, escabeche keeps well for up to 1 month.