Kaldou (Red Snapper With Onions and Lemon)
This aromatic fish stew celebrates the flavors of Senegal’s southern Casamance region.

By Jessica B. Harris


Published on February 27, 2025

This humble dish, known as kaldou, celebrates the lemon and onion flavors typical of southern Senegal’s Casamance region. Some home cooks may choose to toss in other ingredients for added complexity, including sliced carrot, a peeled and chopped tomato, or a handful of small, delicate okra pods. The habanero will continue to release its heat while the fish cooks; you can remove it sooner for a milder flavor.

Featured in “Senegal, 1972” by Jessica B. Harris in the Fall/Winter 2024 issue.

  • Serves

    2–4

  • Time

    35 minutes

Ingredients

  • Two 1½-lb. red snappers, cleaned, heads on
  • ½ cup fresh lemon juice, divided
  • 2 tsp. kosher salt, plus more
  • ¼ cup peanut oil
  • 2 large yellow onions, thinly sliced
  • 1 habanero chile, pricked with a fork
  • White rice, for serving

Instructions

Step 1

In a medium bowl, rub both fish inside and out with 1 tablespoon of the lemon juice, then season with the salt. 

Step 2

To a pot wide enough to hold the fish, add the oil and onions and turn the heat to medium-high. Cook, stirring frequently, until soft and golden brown, about 16 minutes. 

Step 3

Add the chile and 4 cups of water and bring to a boil. Add the fish, turn the heat to medium-low, cover, and simmer until the flesh is nearly opaque, about 10 minutes. Add the remaining lemon juice and continue cooking until the fish is fully cooked, about 5 minutes more. Season to taste with salt and serve hot over rice.
  1. In a medium bowl, rub both fish inside and out with 1 tablespoon of the lemon juice, then season with the salt. 
  2. To a pot wide enough to hold the fish, add the oil and onions and turn the heat to medium-high. Cook, stirring frequently, until soft and golden brown, about 16 minutes. 
  3. Add the chile and 4 cups of water and bring to a boil. Add the fish, turn the heat to medium-low, cover, and simmer until the flesh is nearly opaque, about 10 minutes. Add the remaining lemon juice and continue cooking until the fish is fully cooked, about 5 minutes more. Season to taste with salt and serve hot over rice.
Recipes

Kaldou (Red Snapper With Onions and Lemon)

This aromatic fish stew celebrates the flavors of Senegal’s southern Casamance region.

  • Serves

    2–4

  • Time

    35 minutes

Kaldou (Red Snapper With Onions and Lemon)
PHOTO: MURRAY HALL • FOOD STYLING: THU BUSER

By Jessica B. Harris


Published on February 27, 2025

This humble dish, known as kaldou, celebrates the lemon and onion flavors typical of southern Senegal’s Casamance region. Some home cooks may choose to toss in other ingredients for added complexity, including sliced carrot, a peeled and chopped tomato, or a handful of small, delicate okra pods. The habanero will continue to release its heat while the fish cooks; you can remove it sooner for a milder flavor.

Featured in “Senegal, 1972” by Jessica B. Harris in the Fall/Winter 2024 issue.

Ingredients

  • Two 1½-lb. red snappers, cleaned, heads on
  • ½ cup fresh lemon juice, divided
  • 2 tsp. kosher salt, plus more
  • ¼ cup peanut oil
  • 2 large yellow onions, thinly sliced
  • 1 habanero chile, pricked with a fork
  • White rice, for serving

Instructions

Step 1

In a medium bowl, rub both fish inside and out with 1 tablespoon of the lemon juice, then season with the salt. 

Step 2

To a pot wide enough to hold the fish, add the oil and onions and turn the heat to medium-high. Cook, stirring frequently, until soft and golden brown, about 16 minutes. 

Step 3

Add the chile and 4 cups of water and bring to a boil. Add the fish, turn the heat to medium-low, cover, and simmer until the flesh is nearly opaque, about 10 minutes. Add the remaining lemon juice and continue cooking until the fish is fully cooked, about 5 minutes more. Season to taste with salt and serve hot over rice.
  1. In a medium bowl, rub both fish inside and out with 1 tablespoon of the lemon juice, then season with the salt. 
  2. To a pot wide enough to hold the fish, add the oil and onions and turn the heat to medium-high. Cook, stirring frequently, until soft and golden brown, about 16 minutes. 
  3. Add the chile and 4 cups of water and bring to a boil. Add the fish, turn the heat to medium-low, cover, and simmer until the flesh is nearly opaque, about 10 minutes. Add the remaining lemon juice and continue cooking until the fish is fully cooked, about 5 minutes more. Season to taste with salt and serve hot over rice.

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