Stroll through East Boston, and you’ll find a decades-old Colombian restaurant serving enormous meat-laden bandeja paisa. Visit South End, one of the city’s buzziest dining neighborhoods, and you might chance upon the spicy-sour, tongue-tingling flavors of China’s Yunnan cuisine. And yes, as the salty ocean breeze reminds us, there’s plenty of New England’s freshest catch to enjoy—in the form of a spicy Greek-island fish stew in Back Bay, or as deep-fried seabass with housemade red curry in Brookline. 

I’ve been coming to Massachusetts regularly since college, and now that I live here, I have a front-row seat to how the restaurant scene is evolving. With this list of local restaurants to guide your eating exploits in Beantown, I hope you discover that the historic city you thought you knew is a far more vibrant mosaic than meets the eye. Though you might come for the fisherman’s platters, you’ll end up staying for the moqueca, rambutan salad, and octopus mortadella.

89 Holland Street, Somerville
(617) 718-9463

The beauty of Spoke Wine Bar in Somerville is the way it meets you exactly where you are. If you’re looking for a quirky wine to impress your natty-loving friend, an enthusiastic bartender will pour a glass to remember, such as a smooth, chamomile-scented roditis from Attiki, Greece, or an herbaceous, mineral godello from Galicia, Spain. If you’re feeling a cocktail, there’s an ever-shifting, globally influenced selection—like the vodka-forward Bury the Glass, with green mango brine and star anise. Date-worthy dishes pair ingredients in unexpected ways, too: When in season, try the squash blossom cornmeal fritters with sauerkraut and sheep’s milk yogurt, or a potato salad bound with mayo enriched with crab fat and uni. You’ll notice the care and precision that goes into the food—from the dusting of powdered leeks on the sunchoke donuts to the curried crab butter that accompanies the bavette—yet there’s no trace of pretension in this intimate space. The decor may feel Scandinavian minimalist, but the food and drink go full-on maximal.

23A Bow Street, Somerville
(617) 764-1750

Is this Somerville hangout the closest a Bostonian can get to Mexico without skipping town? Mexican favorites seldom seen in these parts—spicy quesabirria tacos stuffed with melted cheese and shredded beef, creamy guacamole crowned with fried grasshoppers, and Yucatán cochinita pibil (slow-cooked, achiote-marinated pork)—are all on offer. The beverage program, too, reminds me of my favorite CDMX bars, with selections that include the Abasolo, a corn whiskey cocktail; a fruity and tannic nebbiolo from Baja, California; and a medley of enticing sotol options. (The restaurant’s name does mean “bar” in Spanish, after all.)

270 Third Street, Cambridge
(617) 945-0907

Bold, spicy, and salty flavors dominate the menu at this Cambridge restaurant dedicated to the distinctive food of China’s Hunan province, where cooks make liberal use of preserved meats, pickled vegetables, and chile peppers. The menu is filled with hard-to-find regional favorites: A few bites into the thrillingly spicy crushed green peppers mixed with preserved century egg, or the pleasingly sour housemade pickled beans stir-fried with pork, and you’ll already be planning your next visit. Sumiao Hunan Kitchen might also have the city’s most extensive baijiu program, stirring the Chinese grain-distilled spirit into funky cocktails and serving beloved brands such as Wuliangye and Red Star Erguotou neat.

249 Pearl Street, Somerville
(617) 764-4464

Like its acclaimed sibling restaurant—Turkish-inspired Oleana in Cambridge— newer Sarma in Somerville also roots its menu in Mediterranean meze. But chef Cassie Piuma plays up affinities among other global flavors, too: She laces her famous cornbread with feta, honey, and spicy peppers, while her swordfish, seasoned with black sesame and served with wasabi yogurt and yuzu-scented dolmades, marries Asian and Levantine sensibilities. Oleana may be a special occasion darling, but Sarma, with its uptempo music and walls hung with cheery painted plates, make for a more relaxed, tee-and-jeans kind of night out.

1721B Washington Street, Boston
(617) 936-4123

If the spicy, sour, and all-around striking flavors of China’s Yunnan Province are new to you, you’re in for a treat at Yunnan Kitchen. Ma la—the numbing, fiery seasoning of Sichuan pepper and chiles—tantalizes the tongue in dishes such as boiled pork in chile oil. Chef Yisha Siu’s fried mushrooms make a satisfyingly crunchy showcase for Yunnan’s love of fungi, while offerings like the crispy shredded potato pancakes channel the region’s penchant for tubers. Cheese isn’t common across China, but it’s an important protein source in this southwest province; be sure to try the fried cheese, a firm goat cheese that the kitchen pan-fries and serves with honey.

611 Dorchester Avenue, Boston
(617) 269-0110

This cozy restaurant is the crown jewel of Dorchester’s Polish Triangle—“Little Poland” between Boston Street, Dorchester Avenue, and Columbia Road. One of the only sit-down eateries serving a Polish menu in the city, this tiny spot has been cooking hearty fare like dill pickle soup, kishka (blood sausage), and sobieski (breaded chicken cutlet) since 2002 in what feels like a family dining room (the founder carved the furniture by hand). I love ordering the Polish plate, a tasting platter with bigos, a meat and cabbage stew; stuffed cabbage rolls; pierogies; and kielbasa.

48 Gloucester Street, Boston
(617) 536-0230

I thought I was familiar with Greek food—until I dined at Krasi, a wine and meze bar where lesser-known dishes take center stage. Curate your own starter board from a selection of cheeses and cured meats you won’t find at your average grocery, like Kalathaki Limnou (a soft sheep’s milk cheese from Lemnos island) and octopus mortadella. Then, go island-hopping with regional dishes such as skioufichta, a cheesy and creamy Cretan pasta; or bourdeto, a saucy fish dish hailing from Corfu. “Krasi” means wine in Greek, so it’s no surprise that the selection of Greek wines here—from rare vintages to piney retsinas (made with actual resin)—is the second largest of any U.S. restaurant. (That’s why the seats at the marble-topped bar are some of the best in the house.)

1052 Dorchester Avenue, Boston
(617) 265-7171

This takeout-only restaurant and market has been slinging banh mi and selling Vietnamese pantry staples in Dorchester’s Little Saigon for more than three decades. There’s frequently a wait, which means more time to peruse the ready-to-eat cases—sticky-rice treats and pillowy steamed buns, anyone? Everybody should order what the bakery does best: banh mi. Choose from a variety of meats, like pork floss or barbecue beef, then watch a sandwich pro generously layer up your order fresh.

1008 Cambridge Street, Cambridge
(617) 354-3296

What to eat at this Inman Square restaurant? Moqueca, of course—a Brazilian seafood stew brimming with fish and shrimp that’s heady with the scent of tomatoes and coconut milk. Cooked on the stove in a clay pot, it’s especially popular in Espírito Santo, the southeast Brazilian city from which owner Maria de Fatima Langa hails; now, she’s introducing the dish to Bostonians in nautical-themed quarters that always feel relaxed and rarely get too noisy or crowded. Try the moqueca “Bahia-style,” enriched with palm oil and coconut milk, for a particularly rib-sticking take. 

383 Congress Street, Boston
300 District Avenue, Burlington
314 Main Street, Cambridge

If you’re looking for fish, shellfish, and crustaceans—what Boston visitor isn’t?—Row 34 keeps things simple with all the New England classics on your to-eat list. You would be remiss not to start with sweet, plump Island Creek Oysters from Duxbury Bay (owner Skip Bennett was a founding partner of Row 34). Then try what I think is one of Boston’s best lobster rolls, either hot with melted butter or cold with creamy mayo. You won’t be disappointed with the fried oysters and griddled crab cakes, which the kitchen crisps to perfection. Pair your marine feast with a cold beer—the restaurant’s extensive list focuses on drafts from around the Northeast. (You’ll find me nursing a malty, zesty witbier from Allagash Brewing Company.)

258 Saratoga Street, Boston
(617) 567-7412

The North End may be our Little Italy—a mishmash of red-sauce joints, pizza parlors, and pastry shops—but longtime Bostonians often head in a different direction for a great Italian meal. Legendary for its huge portions and warm, sincere hospitality, this family-owned and -run East Boston restaurant makes all dishes to order (nothing gets frozen). A creamy tomato sauce spiked with brandy bathes the fan-favorite lobster ravioli, which burst with fresh crustacean meat. You can also expect deeply flavorful Italian crowd-pleasers such as linguine Bolognese and pollo Parmigiana—and to leave with a lot of leftovers to enjoy.

84 Massachusetts Avenue, Stratton Student Center, Cambridge
(617) 418-5890

Somali-born chef and owner Yahya Noor opened Tawakal Halal Café, located in MIT’s Stratton Student Center, to pay homage to the East African food he grew up eating. The Tawakal plate—crispy chapati strips cooked in an herbaceous tomato sauce—is a must-order, and don’t leave without trying the saffron-scented biryani with tender chicken or flaky fish. The restaurant also bottles its mango-habanero hot sauce, which I drizzle over everything from rice dishes to pizza. 

300 Pier Four Boulevard, Boston
(617) 981-4577

Most of what comes out of the kitchen here—be it blueberries, pork belly, or lion’s mane mushrooms—is grown 150 miles north at The Farm at Woods Hill, which the same owner, Kristin Canty, operates. The thought that goes into sourcing is mirrored in chef Charlie Foster’s menu, which spotlights local raw-milk cheeses, grass-fed proteins, and seasonal local produce. The “Caesar-style” salad makes an unexpected but delightful vehicle for grilled chanterelles, and it’s impossible to eat just one of the urfa pepper-scented lamb ribs. Back in the day, this waterfront stretch of South Boston was mostly industrial, but now, the shiny, newly renovated Seaport District is one of the fastest-growing neighborhoods in the city. Be sure to ask for a window table to admire the harbor views while you eat.

236 Washington Street, Brookline
(617) 487-5986

Before Thai childhood friends Chompon Boonnak and Smuch Saikamthorn opened Mahaniyom, Bostonians had few spots to sample dishes like nang kai (deep-fried chicken skin) and plaa hed (an herbaceous grilled mushroom salad) were out of luck—but not anymore. Eschewing the choose-your-protein format and customizable spice level common in Thai American restaurants, this joint focuses instead on shareable small plates with unapologetically bold flavors. Start the night with a Deasy Lemonade—a mocktail made with butterfly pea tea—and don’t skip the steamed bread dipped in pandan custard for dessert.

1166 Cambridge Street, Cambridge
(617) 615-6195

From the moment you sit down, this Inman Square restaurant feels like a celebration of New England, from the rotating seasonal gems grown on chef Will Gilson’s family farm in Groton to the farmhouse-chic accents like wooden liquor cabinets and slat-back chairs. It’s also a reminder that New England fare isn’t just baked beans and fried seafood—it’s always evolving. The menu echoes regional staples but comes with modern, seasonal touches: Think crab cavatelli topped with calabrian chile-seasoned breadcrumbs, a shrimp starter seasoned with black garlic and crispy pickled shallot, and a seafood tower that comes with ceviche. 

54 Bennington Street, Boston
(617) 569-0100

Colombian-born owner Marina Balvin came to Boston more than three decades ago, but it took her several years to open her own place in East Boston (called “Little Colombia” by some). Locals agree: It was worth the wait. A case in point is Balvin’s bandeja paisa, a combo platter piled with rice, carne asada, chicharrón, plantains, arepas, and fried eggs—so enormous it could easily feed a small family … or one ravenous Celtics player. Wash down the mega-meal with a fresh tropical juice like soursop and passionfruit. If taking the T out east isn’t in the cards, consider dropping by one of El Peñol’s newer outposts in Brookline and Revere.

Multiple locations

Every Boston dweller seems to have a key memory revolving around this beloved mini-chain. Mine is eating one of chef Joanne Chang’s famous sticky buns the first time I ever visited this city, and a decade later, its pecan-studded, caramel-topped decadence still stands up to its lofty reputation. In fact, it’s hard to go wrong with any of the sweet treats here—I’m also partial to the light-as-a-cloud coconut cream pie and the maximalist carrot cake (it’s got raisins, walnuts, and candied carrots). For a nourishing pick-me-up between strolling the Freedom Trail and catching a Red Sox game, go for a savory option like the roast beef sandwich on fluffy focaccia (Flour’s take on a Massachusetts classic), or try one of the daily specials handwritten on the chalkboard. No matter where you go in Boston, there’s a decent chance you’re just a baseball throw away from one of Flour’s several bright, airy locations.