Making Bouillabaisse

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1. Fishermen throw their nets into the Mediterranean and pull up such fish as saint-pierre, chapon, dorade, conger, grondin, and vive¿a good start for bouillabaisse. Variety is essential.

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2. Olive oil, garlic, onions, fennel tops, thyme, and other herbs go into the pot for Proven¿al flavor.

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3. Potatoes and tomatoes (the latter fresh in season; otherwise, canned may be used) are added.

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4. Fish, whole or cut into pieces, is then put in (the firmer fish first, more delicate varieties on top). More tomatoes can be tossed in.

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5. Fish stock, or in some cases water, and more olive oil are poured over all of the ingredients. Shellfish such as mussels and crabs can be added at this point.

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6. Although considered an optional ingredient, pastis, the anise-flavored Proven¿al aperitif, is sometimes added for its delicate, refreshing character.

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7. Saffron is essential, lending its unmistakable flavor to the dish and tinting both soup and fish a distinctive red-orange color.

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8. Rapid boiling is the key to the process, emulsifying the oil, stock, and fish gelatin¿thus forming the rich soup that characterizes a successful bouillabaisse. (The foam that develops is skimmed off the top before serving.)