Different Types of Phyllo Dough

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No. 4 phyllo is slightly thicker and holds up to custard fillings in pastries like bougatsa (try Athens brand).

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No. 5 phyllo is heftier still, and a great all-purpose dough; we use it for making tart shells and mini-phyllo cups for hors d'oeuvres and small desserts (Kontos brand is reliably good).

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No. 7 phyllo is our choice for creating sturdy triangular and square pies like individual spanakopita and tyropita (look for Apollo brand).

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Finally, there's country-style phyllo, the thickest of the bunch; it's perfect for hearty, rustic pies like the feta-and-greens-filled hortopita (Zagorisio brand is the best).