The affogato is so simple it almost defies innovation, but that’s exactly why I can’t leave it alone. And when you start thinking of it as a format rather than a recipe, your choices burst wide open. How about a pour of lemon-and-clove-spiked Scotch hot toddy? Or mulled cider over a scoop of butter pecan? Or, the most versatile and, to my mind, delicious—a pour of some tea.

The idea came to me on a Japanese airline during snack time, when the flight attendants brought out single-serving portions of Haagen-Dazs vanilla and the beverage service of hot coffee and green tea. 10 hours into a 13-hour flight, I wasn’t what you’d call in my best state of mind, and before I even knew what I was doing I was slurping some sencha over my ice cream like it was the most natural thing in the world. People who say you should never drink green tea with milk: Try it with ice cream and think about your choices again.

Tea’s certainly less potent than espresso, so a tea affogato is certainly more subtle. But what it lacks in punch it makes up in complexity. Grassy green tea turns mellow with an almost honey-like sweetness, especially with vanilla; malty black tea becomes rich and rounded (I like adding a little lemon zest for good measure). Or try a roasty oolong for a savory-sweet dessert that recalls chocolate and even whiskey. You could even use matcha—which one could call the espresso of the tea world—for a nice green color contrast.

Pretty much any of these specialty teas are perfect for a tea affogato; the only limit is making sure you have enough ice cream in stock.

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