13 Dishes Every Traveler Should Eat in Buenos AiresA local reveals her top spots for flaky empanadas, sizzling steaks, featherlight alfajores, and other Argentine essentials.

Buenos Aires smells different on Fridays in my neighborhood of Chacarita. A familiar haze lingers in the air, my cue to slide open my balcony door and let the smoky scent of asado de obra—construction workers’ barbecue lunch—waft into my apartment. Down below, day laborers are busy digging into chorizos, morcillas, and flank steaks grilled right at the construction site, and the scent signals that the weekend is near. After 18 years’ living in Argentina, that unmistakable aroma still makes me crave something deeply, distinctly Argentine.

The Argentine capital overwhelms the senses. Porteños, as the locals are called, embody that chaotic energy, blending unfiltered passion (for sports, food, literature—you name it) with laid-back charm. The streets hum with café chatter, the blare of taxis, and voices “puteando”—cursing and shouting—in heated conversations accentuated by the dramatic sweep of Italian-looking hand gestures. 

The food culture thrives across its barrios—ingredient-driven kitchens in Chacarita, neighborhood bistros in Belgrano, timeworn institutions in San Telmo, and so much more—each with its own vibe and flavor. Despite the city’s size and economic challenges, it’s a joy to wander among the lively parrillas, bodegones (cantinas), bars, and cafés. 

Yet for all the noise and bustle, Buenos Aires food, for the most part, is simple and straightforward. Instead of complex spices, you’ll find hearty pastas, gluten-packed pastries, plates oozing with cheese or dulce de leche, and giant slabs of beef seasoned simply with salt. When Anthony Bourdain returned from Buenos Aires, he said, “I saw my first vegetable when I got back to New York and fell to my knees weeping with joy,” reflecting on the city’s meat obsession.

Bourdain had a point. While Buenos Aires is learning to embrace veggie-friendly options, its essential food groups are still meat, carbs, and fat—perfected. But that reality hasn’t deterred a new generation of risk-taking chefs from reimagining the classics: The gnocchis at Evelia and the ice cream at Obrador Florida are but two examples.

Still, narrowing down 12 essential dishes (and one standout spot for each) in Buenos Aires wasn’t easy. I started with over 36 iconic foods, trimmed it to 16, and polled thousands of Argentines to weigh in on what every traveler should try. The result? A guide to the city’s most beloved culinary treasures. ¡Buen provecho!

Parrillada at El Ferroviario Parrilla 

Laura Macías

A true Argentine parrillada, or mixed grill, is an overflowing platter of charred steak cuts, sausages, and achuras (organ meats). The exact lineup varies with each parrilla (steakhouse) and parrillero (grillmaster), and at El Ferroviario—a sprawling, beloved local spot in an old railway station near the José Amalfitani Stadium—the parrillada is served on a massive wooden plank featuring an expertly grilled selection of the day’s best cuts. Diners can also opt for the parrilla libre, an all-you-can-eat spread of sweetbreads, chorizo stuffed with red pepper, grilled provoleta cheese, sirloin, suckling pig, and over a dozen other cuts. Efficient waitstaff in traditional gaucho attire weave through the bustling scene, serving more than 1,000 diners daily. It’s a spectacle of flavor and scale, best enjoyed with a group—and a reservation, as the wait can be as grand as the portions.

Empanadas at La Cocina

Laura Macías

Empanadas are Argentina’s handheld anytime food, with each region imparting its own twist on these savory dough pockets. La Cocina brings a taste of the northwesterly Catamarca region with empanadas that stand apart for their thick, buttery dough, hearty stew-like fillings, and seasonings like paprika and cumin. While most shops rely on store-bought wrappers, La Cocina makes its dough from scratch, giving it a signature golden hue that’s earned the shop cult status. My favorite flavors? The classic chicken with green onions, potato, and hard-boiled egg; and the Pikachu, with cheese, sweet onions, and spicy chile flakes.

Honorable mention: Vecindá specializes in meat-free empanadas baked in a wood-fired oven. Don’t be surprised to spot famous Argentine musicians and actors at sidewalk tables on this trendy Chacarita corner, savoring two favorite Porteño pastimes: empanada eating and people watching.

Choripán at Nuestra Parrilla

Laura Macías

Choripán gets its name from its two components: chorizo (pork sausage) and pan (bread). It’s a no-frills combo that’s legendary for good reason. Each bite is a satisfying blend of smoky, fatty, tangy flavors, and it’s handheld, making it an iconic street food staple. At Nuestra Parrilla (aka Lo de Freddy) in the San Telmo Market, the juicy chorizo gets butterflied and grilled until crisp around the edges, then tucked into a crusty roll and topped with garlicky chimichurri. Diners can slather on homemade sauces from jars on the bar, such as salsa criolla, more (red or green) chimichurri, and homemade hot sauce—a rarity in this spice-averse city. Family-owned and run by Freddy and his kids since 2001, this hole-in-the-wall is a beloved neighborhood favorite. 

Milanesas at Bar Oriente

Laura Macías

A milanesa is more than just a breaded cutlet in Argentina—it’s a cultural mainstay. Similar to cotoletta alla milanese or schnitzel, this crisp-fried beef or chicken dish, brought over by Italian immigrants, has become a staple of everyday life. Order it a la napolitana, topped with tomato sauce, ham, and cheese; tucked into a sandwich with fixings of your choosing; or, in some places, “Maryland style,” with creamed corn, shoestring potatoes, and fried banana. In whatever form, milanesa brings deep nostalgia, uniting generations around the table. As an honorary Porteña, I miss this dish more than any other when I’m away, and it’s the first I eat upon returning. My move is usually the suprema de pollo at Bar Oriente, with an ensalada mixta and mashed butternut squash—or papas fritas if I’m looking to indulge. For years, I swore not to divulge the greatness of this bar in Villa Ortúzar, but since it’s no longer hidden, I’ll pass it on to you.

Flan Mixto at Los Galgos

Laura Macías

The flan mixto at Los Galgos, a cherished café dating back to 1930, is pure tradition. It’s made using the classic 12-egg recipe from Doña Petrona, Argentina’s most iconic cookbook author and culinary figure, whose recipes have shaped home cooking. Slow-cooked for 90 minutes, the flan achieves a rich, creamy texture and is topped with dulce de leche from El Abascay organic dairy and a dollop of freshly whipped cream. But don’t skip straight to dessert: The menu is an introduction to other essential dishes that didn’t make this list, such as revuelto gramajo (potato and egg hash), tortilla de papas (Spanish omelet), torta pascualina (savory tart), and buñuelos de acelga (swiss chard fritters). For the full experience, pair it with a Ferroviario cocktail with Fernet Branca, Carpano Classico Rosso vermouth, and soda.

Ñoquis at Evelia

Campos Salles 1712, Núñez
+ 54 9 11 5316-0615

Laura Macías

Originating in Italy, ñoquis (gnocchi) are a cherished tradition in Argentina, thanks to the waves of Italian immigrants who arrived starting in the mid-19th century. On the 29th of each month, families and friends gather to celebrate Ñoquis del 29 and enjoy these soft, pillowy potato dumplings together. The tradition, born from economic struggles, stretched an affordable meal to the end of the month. At Evelia in Núñez, chef Máximo Togni honors his grandmother Evelia’s gnocchi legacy. The ñoquis are made by roasting Sagitta potatoes on a bed of coarse salt, then mixing them with 00 flour and egg yolk. The bright and herbaceous pesto incorporates Grana Padano cheese and pine nuts, while the ñoquis con estofado Evelia pay homage to Togni’s family’s beef and tomato stew recipe, featuring punta de paleta (flat iron steak), a cut prized for its fat and collagen, slowly braised with Italian tomatoes and vegetable stock. 

Sándwich de Miga at Las Violetas

Laura Macias

These crustless, delicate tea sandwiches, akin to Italian tramezzini, must be eaten fresh to dodge any dreaded sogginess. They’re a staple at birthdays, office gatherings, bakeries, and cafés, and come filled with anything from ham and cheese to egg salad to hearts of palm with salsa golf (mayo-ketchup). For the full experience, head to Las Violetas, a storied café notable (a designation given to historic cafés recognized for their cultural and architectural significance) dating back to 1884 in the Almagro neighborhood. Here, mozos (waiters) in white shirts, vests, and bow ties serve loyal regulars who linger for hours. Settle in—this is Buenos Aires café culture at its essence. 

Pizza and Fainá at La Mezzetta

Laura Macías

Buenos Aires-style pizza stands out for its thick, doughy crust and exuberant amounts of cheese. A must is the fugazzetta, especially at La Mezzetta—a beloved standing-room only spot since 1939, where locals line up out the door for cheese-laden pies topped with caramelized onions. The pro move is to order by the slice, choosing from a variety of classic toppings like the fugazzetta (loaded with caramelized onions and cheese) and other fan favorites, including mozzarella, “Napolitana” with tomatoes and garlic, and ham with roasted red peppers. You might notice locals balancing fainá atop their pizza slices—a chickpea cake that may seem unusual to newcomers but offers a ritualistic blend of flavors cherished by Porteños.

Alfajores at Ada Café

Tucumán 2300, Balvanera
+54 11 5378-7520

Laura Macías

The alfajor is more than dessert—it’s a national treasure. This sandwich cookie filled with dulce de leche is traditionally made from a cornstarch dough and rolled in coconut, though you’ll also find it coated in milk or white chocolate. Most Argentines pick up their favorite store-bought brands—Jorgito, Capitán del Espacio, Cachafaz—at the local kiosco, but these days, cafés are reimagining the classic. At Ada Café, a corner spot with fantastic people watching in the heart of Once’s garment district, alfajores get a fresh twist: Their vegan dark chocolate and raspberry version is a bold, tangy riff on tradition—and it doesn’t stop there. Ada’s rotating menu of alfajores push cookie boundaries with creations like a lemon alfajor filled with white chocolate ganache and lemon curd; or the chocoliva, packed with chocolate ganache and dulce de leche. Go for merienda (tea time between lunch and dinner), pair it with an expertly brewed coffee, and you’ll understand why Argentina feels a special bond to the alfajor in all its forms.

Sorrentinos at Tita La Vedette

Laura Macías

Sorrentinos, despite their Italian-sounding name, are an Argentine-created comfort food. Larger than ravioli, these generously stuffed pasta pockets—typically filled with ham, spinach, mozzarella, or ricotta cheese—are sealed with a circular mold and often served with tuco (tomato sauce). You’ll find sorrentinos at Sunday family lunches and in traditional bodegones across the city. For a plant-based twist and a look at how local favorites continue to evolve, Tita La Vedette offers artisanal vegan sorrentinos with inventive fillings like squash, matsutake mushrooms, and almonds with cashew cream and carrot oil. The colorful dough also changes regularly, depending on what ingredients they have on hand, such as activated carbon, beets, and turmeric. This women-owned business has built a devoted following, with a small takeout shop in Chacarita and a sit-down restaurant in up-and-coming La Paternal.

For a more classic take, try Cantina Pierino, a century-old institution that has been serving homemade pastas in Almagro since 1909. Their fresh sorrentinos come with fillings like spinach and ricotta, ham and mozzarella, or eggplant and basil, and are paired with a choice of over 14 homemade sauces.

Helado at Obrador Florida

Laura Macías

In a city defined by indulgence, helado (ice cream) is the ultimate expression of Buenos Aires’ sweet tooth. Here, ice cream isn’t just dessert—it’s a touchstone of Porteño life. Heladerías buzz year round, offering Italian-style gelato with dense, silky texture and dozens of flavors. Dulce de leche reigns supreme, often appearing alongside brownies, nuts, and chocolate chunks, but other favorite flavors include chocolate, sambayón, and seasonal fruit sorbets. Among the city’s beloved shops, Obrador Florida stands out for its quality and innovation. Every flavor is made on site in their production kitchen, visible through the windows. Their 12 rotating flavors highlight seasonal produce, such as wild blackberries paired with a blend of Madagascar, Tahitian, and Ugandan vanilla. Complete your scoop at their toppings bar, where you can customize this already elevated helado experience.  

Medialunas at La Garage

Laura Macías

Buenos Aires’ medialuna (croissant) master can be found in the Palermo neighborhood at La Garage. Here, the pastries are crafted with precision: Delicate layers of laminated dough rise into pillowy crescents, lightly glazed for just the right balance of sweetness and sheen. The medialunas con dulce de leche are especially decadent, as is the croissant grilled cheese with kimchi, where the richness of the cheese meets the spicy, fermented kick of kimchi. Run by two young chefs, the garage-cum-bakery blends tradition with subtle innovation, operating as a takeaway spot with a few outdoor tables. Step inside and you’re greeted by a deli counter overflowing with tempting options, from savory puff pastries and chipá cheese bread to ricotta cake and Jewish Argentine nods like knishes and challah egg salad sandwiches. After I sampled medialunas from some of the city’s best bakeries in a blind taste test, La Garage stood out as my top choice. 

Bonus Track: Fernet con Coca, Viajero Style  

Fernet con Coca is an iconic Argentine mixed drink, a staple at asados (barbecues), parties, and concerts. The viajero version, in which Fernet and Coca-Cola are poured into a cut plastic Coke bottle (its edges carefully smoothed with a lighter to prevent any mishaps), embodies the camaraderie and community at the heart of Porteño gatherings. It’s a communal drink, meant to be passed around, sipped in parks, and enjoyed at casual get-togethers. While restaurants like La Carnicería and Chori serve their own takes, the true magic lies in mixing it yourself and sharing it al aire libre.

13 Dishes Every Traveler Should Eat in Buenos Aires
LAURA MACIAS
Culture

13 Dishes Every Traveler Should Eat in Buenos Aires

A local reveals her top spots for flaky empanadas, sizzling steaks, featherlight alfajores, and other Argentine essentials.

By Allie Lazar


Published on December 11, 2024

Buenos Aires smells different on Fridays in my neighborhood of Chacarita. A familiar haze lingers in the air, my cue to slide open my balcony door and let the smoky scent of asado de obra—construction workers’ barbecue lunch—waft into my apartment. Down below, day laborers are busy digging into chorizos, morcillas, and flank steaks grilled right at the construction site, and the scent signals that the weekend is near. After 18 years’ living in Argentina, that unmistakable aroma still makes me crave something deeply, distinctly Argentine.

The Argentine capital overwhelms the senses. Porteños, as the locals are called, embody that chaotic energy, blending unfiltered passion (for sports, food, literature—you name it) with laid-back charm. The streets hum with café chatter, the blare of taxis, and voices “puteando”—cursing and shouting—in heated conversations accentuated by the dramatic sweep of Italian-looking hand gestures. 

The food culture thrives across its barrios—ingredient-driven kitchens in Chacarita, neighborhood bistros in Belgrano, timeworn institutions in San Telmo, and so much more—each with its own vibe and flavor. Despite the city’s size and economic challenges, it’s a joy to wander among the lively parrillas, bodegones (cantinas), bars, and cafés. 

Yet for all the noise and bustle, Buenos Aires food, for the most part, is simple and straightforward. Instead of complex spices, you’ll find hearty pastas, gluten-packed pastries, plates oozing with cheese or dulce de leche, and giant slabs of beef seasoned simply with salt. When Anthony Bourdain returned from Buenos Aires, he said, “I saw my first vegetable when I got back to New York and fell to my knees weeping with joy,” reflecting on the city’s meat obsession.

Bourdain had a point. While Buenos Aires is learning to embrace veggie-friendly options, its essential food groups are still meat, carbs, and fat—perfected. But that reality hasn’t deterred a new generation of risk-taking chefs from reimagining the classics: The gnocchis at Evelia and the ice cream at Obrador Florida are but two examples.

Still, narrowing down 12 essential dishes (and one standout spot for each) in Buenos Aires wasn’t easy. I started with over 36 iconic foods, trimmed it to 16, and polled thousands of Argentines to weigh in on what every traveler should try. The result? A guide to the city’s most beloved culinary treasures. ¡Buen provecho!

Parrillada at El Ferroviario Parrilla 

Laura Macías

A true Argentine parrillada, or mixed grill, is an overflowing platter of charred steak cuts, sausages, and achuras (organ meats). The exact lineup varies with each parrilla (steakhouse) and parrillero (grillmaster), and at El Ferroviario—a sprawling, beloved local spot in an old railway station near the José Amalfitani Stadium—the parrillada is served on a massive wooden plank featuring an expertly grilled selection of the day’s best cuts. Diners can also opt for the parrilla libre, an all-you-can-eat spread of sweetbreads, chorizo stuffed with red pepper, grilled provoleta cheese, sirloin, suckling pig, and over a dozen other cuts. Efficient waitstaff in traditional gaucho attire weave through the bustling scene, serving more than 1,000 diners daily. It’s a spectacle of flavor and scale, best enjoyed with a group—and a reservation, as the wait can be as grand as the portions.

Empanadas at La Cocina

Laura Macías

Empanadas are Argentina’s handheld anytime food, with each region imparting its own twist on these savory dough pockets. La Cocina brings a taste of the northwesterly Catamarca region with empanadas that stand apart for their thick, buttery dough, hearty stew-like fillings, and seasonings like paprika and cumin. While most shops rely on store-bought wrappers, La Cocina makes its dough from scratch, giving it a signature golden hue that’s earned the shop cult status. My favorite flavors? The classic chicken with green onions, potato, and hard-boiled egg; and the Pikachu, with cheese, sweet onions, and spicy chile flakes.

Honorable mention: Vecindá specializes in meat-free empanadas baked in a wood-fired oven. Don’t be surprised to spot famous Argentine musicians and actors at sidewalk tables on this trendy Chacarita corner, savoring two favorite Porteño pastimes: empanada eating and people watching.

Choripán at Nuestra Parrilla

Laura Macías

Choripán gets its name from its two components: chorizo (pork sausage) and pan (bread). It’s a no-frills combo that’s legendary for good reason. Each bite is a satisfying blend of smoky, fatty, tangy flavors, and it’s handheld, making it an iconic street food staple. At Nuestra Parrilla (aka Lo de Freddy) in the San Telmo Market, the juicy chorizo gets butterflied and grilled until crisp around the edges, then tucked into a crusty roll and topped with garlicky chimichurri. Diners can slather on homemade sauces from jars on the bar, such as salsa criolla, more (red or green) chimichurri, and homemade hot sauce—a rarity in this spice-averse city. Family-owned and run by Freddy and his kids since 2001, this hole-in-the-wall is a beloved neighborhood favorite. 

Milanesas at Bar Oriente

Laura Macías

A milanesa is more than just a breaded cutlet in Argentina—it’s a cultural mainstay. Similar to cotoletta alla milanese or schnitzel, this crisp-fried beef or chicken dish, brought over by Italian immigrants, has become a staple of everyday life. Order it a la napolitana, topped with tomato sauce, ham, and cheese; tucked into a sandwich with fixings of your choosing; or, in some places, “Maryland style,” with creamed corn, shoestring potatoes, and fried banana. In whatever form, milanesa brings deep nostalgia, uniting generations around the table. As an honorary Porteña, I miss this dish more than any other when I’m away, and it’s the first I eat upon returning. My move is usually the suprema de pollo at Bar Oriente, with an ensalada mixta and mashed butternut squash—or papas fritas if I’m looking to indulge. For years, I swore not to divulge the greatness of this bar in Villa Ortúzar, but since it’s no longer hidden, I’ll pass it on to you.

Flan Mixto at Los Galgos

Laura Macías

The flan mixto at Los Galgos, a cherished café dating back to 1930, is pure tradition. It’s made using the classic 12-egg recipe from Doña Petrona, Argentina’s most iconic cookbook author and culinary figure, whose recipes have shaped home cooking. Slow-cooked for 90 minutes, the flan achieves a rich, creamy texture and is topped with dulce de leche from El Abascay organic dairy and a dollop of freshly whipped cream. But don’t skip straight to dessert: The menu is an introduction to other essential dishes that didn’t make this list, such as revuelto gramajo (potato and egg hash), tortilla de papas (Spanish omelet), torta pascualina (savory tart), and buñuelos de acelga (swiss chard fritters). For the full experience, pair it with a Ferroviario cocktail with Fernet Branca, Carpano Classico Rosso vermouth, and soda.

Ñoquis at Evelia

Campos Salles 1712, Núñez
+ 54 9 11 5316-0615

Laura Macías

Originating in Italy, ñoquis (gnocchi) are a cherished tradition in Argentina, thanks to the waves of Italian immigrants who arrived starting in the mid-19th century. On the 29th of each month, families and friends gather to celebrate Ñoquis del 29 and enjoy these soft, pillowy potato dumplings together. The tradition, born from economic struggles, stretched an affordable meal to the end of the month. At Evelia in Núñez, chef Máximo Togni honors his grandmother Evelia’s gnocchi legacy. The ñoquis are made by roasting Sagitta potatoes on a bed of coarse salt, then mixing them with 00 flour and egg yolk. The bright and herbaceous pesto incorporates Grana Padano cheese and pine nuts, while the ñoquis con estofado Evelia pay homage to Togni’s family’s beef and tomato stew recipe, featuring punta de paleta (flat iron steak), a cut prized for its fat and collagen, slowly braised with Italian tomatoes and vegetable stock. 

Sándwich de Miga at Las Violetas

Laura Macias

These crustless, delicate tea sandwiches, akin to Italian tramezzini, must be eaten fresh to dodge any dreaded sogginess. They’re a staple at birthdays, office gatherings, bakeries, and cafés, and come filled with anything from ham and cheese to egg salad to hearts of palm with salsa golf (mayo-ketchup). For the full experience, head to Las Violetas, a storied café notable (a designation given to historic cafés recognized for their cultural and architectural significance) dating back to 1884 in the Almagro neighborhood. Here, mozos (waiters) in white shirts, vests, and bow ties serve loyal regulars who linger for hours. Settle in—this is Buenos Aires café culture at its essence. 

Pizza and Fainá at La Mezzetta

Laura Macías

Buenos Aires-style pizza stands out for its thick, doughy crust and exuberant amounts of cheese. A must is the fugazzetta, especially at La Mezzetta—a beloved standing-room only spot since 1939, where locals line up out the door for cheese-laden pies topped with caramelized onions. The pro move is to order by the slice, choosing from a variety of classic toppings like the fugazzetta (loaded with caramelized onions and cheese) and other fan favorites, including mozzarella, “Napolitana” with tomatoes and garlic, and ham with roasted red peppers. You might notice locals balancing fainá atop their pizza slices—a chickpea cake that may seem unusual to newcomers but offers a ritualistic blend of flavors cherished by Porteños.

Alfajores at Ada Café

Tucumán 2300, Balvanera
+54 11 5378-7520

Laura Macías

The alfajor is more than dessert—it’s a national treasure. This sandwich cookie filled with dulce de leche is traditionally made from a cornstarch dough and rolled in coconut, though you’ll also find it coated in milk or white chocolate. Most Argentines pick up their favorite store-bought brands—Jorgito, Capitán del Espacio, Cachafaz—at the local kiosco, but these days, cafés are reimagining the classic. At Ada Café, a corner spot with fantastic people watching in the heart of Once’s garment district, alfajores get a fresh twist: Their vegan dark chocolate and raspberry version is a bold, tangy riff on tradition—and it doesn’t stop there. Ada’s rotating menu of alfajores push cookie boundaries with creations like a lemon alfajor filled with white chocolate ganache and lemon curd; or the chocoliva, packed with chocolate ganache and dulce de leche. Go for merienda (tea time between lunch and dinner), pair it with an expertly brewed coffee, and you’ll understand why Argentina feels a special bond to the alfajor in all its forms.

Sorrentinos at Tita La Vedette

Laura Macías

Sorrentinos, despite their Italian-sounding name, are an Argentine-created comfort food. Larger than ravioli, these generously stuffed pasta pockets—typically filled with ham, spinach, mozzarella, or ricotta cheese—are sealed with a circular mold and often served with tuco (tomato sauce). You’ll find sorrentinos at Sunday family lunches and in traditional bodegones across the city. For a plant-based twist and a look at how local favorites continue to evolve, Tita La Vedette offers artisanal vegan sorrentinos with inventive fillings like squash, matsutake mushrooms, and almonds with cashew cream and carrot oil. The colorful dough also changes regularly, depending on what ingredients they have on hand, such as activated carbon, beets, and turmeric. This women-owned business has built a devoted following, with a small takeout shop in Chacarita and a sit-down restaurant in up-and-coming La Paternal.

For a more classic take, try Cantina Pierino, a century-old institution that has been serving homemade pastas in Almagro since 1909. Their fresh sorrentinos come with fillings like spinach and ricotta, ham and mozzarella, or eggplant and basil, and are paired with a choice of over 14 homemade sauces.

Helado at Obrador Florida

Laura Macías

In a city defined by indulgence, helado (ice cream) is the ultimate expression of Buenos Aires’ sweet tooth. Here, ice cream isn’t just dessert—it’s a touchstone of Porteño life. Heladerías buzz year round, offering Italian-style gelato with dense, silky texture and dozens of flavors. Dulce de leche reigns supreme, often appearing alongside brownies, nuts, and chocolate chunks, but other favorite flavors include chocolate, sambayón, and seasonal fruit sorbets. Among the city’s beloved shops, Obrador Florida stands out for its quality and innovation. Every flavor is made on site in their production kitchen, visible through the windows. Their 12 rotating flavors highlight seasonal produce, such as wild blackberries paired with a blend of Madagascar, Tahitian, and Ugandan vanilla. Complete your scoop at their toppings bar, where you can customize this already elevated helado experience.  

Medialunas at La Garage

Laura Macías

Buenos Aires’ medialuna (croissant) master can be found in the Palermo neighborhood at La Garage. Here, the pastries are crafted with precision: Delicate layers of laminated dough rise into pillowy crescents, lightly glazed for just the right balance of sweetness and sheen. The medialunas con dulce de leche are especially decadent, as is the croissant grilled cheese with kimchi, where the richness of the cheese meets the spicy, fermented kick of kimchi. Run by two young chefs, the garage-cum-bakery blends tradition with subtle innovation, operating as a takeaway spot with a few outdoor tables. Step inside and you’re greeted by a deli counter overflowing with tempting options, from savory puff pastries and chipá cheese bread to ricotta cake and Jewish Argentine nods like knishes and challah egg salad sandwiches. After I sampled medialunas from some of the city’s best bakeries in a blind taste test, La Garage stood out as my top choice. 

Bonus Track: Fernet con Coca, Viajero Style  

Fernet con Coca is an iconic Argentine mixed drink, a staple at asados (barbecues), parties, and concerts. The viajero version, in which Fernet and Coca-Cola are poured into a cut plastic Coke bottle (its edges carefully smoothed with a lighter to prevent any mishaps), embodies the camaraderie and community at the heart of Porteño gatherings. It’s a communal drink, meant to be passed around, sipped in parks, and enjoyed at casual get-togethers. While restaurants like La Carnicería and Chori serve their own takes, the true magic lies in mixing it yourself and sharing it al aire libre.

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