How to Eat TijuanaThe Mexican border town has gotten a reboot thanks to a new crop of chefs, food trucks, and hungry young locals

Ever since I was 18, making the occasional trip to Mexico to do tequila shots with friends, I've thought of Tijuana as holding an untold story. A border town in Mexico's Baja California, it wasn't a safe place back in the 1990s. Yet, it held a certain magic that repeatedly lured us along the 30-minute drive from San Diego.

Recently, I'd heard the city had blossomed, and when my friends and I arrived late last year, we were met with a stylish, vibrant food scene fueled by hip, hungry Mexicans. Restaurants in some seedier parts of town still crank out the deep-fried chicken necks beloved by locals, but food truck parks, serving everything from craft beer to local cheese, combined with sprawling open-air markets and elegant new restaurants, are telling the tale of Tijuana—one beyond just tequila shots.

Nueva Tijuana: Crema y Verde, a chic, new restaurant from chef Jair Tellez. Wash down octopus- and gouda-stuffed blue acorn gorditas (below, left) with something from the thoughtful wine selection or the restaurant's sage-infused water. Calle Orizaba 3034
Hidden Hot Pockets: El Tucumano, a parking lot hole-in-the-wall strung up with twinkle lights, serving carne de res empanadas (right), stuffed with beef, hard-boiled egg, and green onion. Corner of Calle 8 and Calle Madero
Mexican Buffet: Telefonica Gastro Park, where food trucks serve single-origin coffees, local cheeses, craft brews like Mexicali's Cerveza Legion, and adobo-marinated pork ramen with enoki mushrooms. Ave. Melchor Ocampo between Blvd. Agua Caliente and Calle 11
A diner enjoys adobo-marinated pork ramen with enoki mushrooms outdoors.
Market Day: Mercado de Artesanías, one of many outdoor markets, featuring hidden taco stands, pomegranate- and nopales-packed produce stands, not to mention dulce de leche by the bucketful, and life-size Donald Trump piñatas. Corner of Calle Benito Juárez & Ave. Negrete
Pomegranate- and Nopales-packed stands at the Mercado de Artesanías. And an Old-School Bonus: Caesar's Restaurante, the progenitor of the Caesar salad, which still makes its famous dressing tableside, the same way it did in the 1920s. Ave. Revolución 1059
Travel

How to Eat Tijuana

The Mexican border town has gotten a reboot thanks to a new crop of chefs, food trucks, and hungry young locals

By Melanie Dunea


Published on July 20, 2016

Ever since I was 18, making the occasional trip to Mexico to do tequila shots with friends, I've thought of Tijuana as holding an untold story. A border town in Mexico's Baja California, it wasn't a safe place back in the 1990s. Yet, it held a certain magic that repeatedly lured us along the 30-minute drive from San Diego.

Recently, I'd heard the city had blossomed, and when my friends and I arrived late last year, we were met with a stylish, vibrant food scene fueled by hip, hungry Mexicans. Restaurants in some seedier parts of town still crank out the deep-fried chicken necks beloved by locals, but food truck parks, serving everything from craft beer to local cheese, combined with sprawling open-air markets and elegant new restaurants, are telling the tale of Tijuana—one beyond just tequila shots.

Nueva Tijuana: Crema y Verde, a chic, new restaurant from chef Jair Tellez. Wash down octopus- and gouda-stuffed blue acorn gorditas (below, left) with something from the thoughtful wine selection or the restaurant's sage-infused water. Calle Orizaba 3034
Hidden Hot Pockets: El Tucumano, a parking lot hole-in-the-wall strung up with twinkle lights, serving carne de res empanadas (right), stuffed with beef, hard-boiled egg, and green onion. Corner of Calle 8 and Calle Madero
Mexican Buffet: Telefonica Gastro Park, where food trucks serve single-origin coffees, local cheeses, craft brews like Mexicali's Cerveza Legion, and adobo-marinated pork ramen with enoki mushrooms. Ave. Melchor Ocampo between Blvd. Agua Caliente and Calle 11
A diner enjoys adobo-marinated pork ramen with enoki mushrooms outdoors.
Market Day: Mercado de Artesanías, one of many outdoor markets, featuring hidden taco stands, pomegranate- and nopales-packed produce stands, not to mention dulce de leche by the bucketful, and life-size Donald Trump piñatas. Corner of Calle Benito Juárez & Ave. Negrete
Pomegranate- and Nopales-packed stands at the Mercado de Artesanías. And an Old-School Bonus: Caesar's Restaurante, the progenitor of the Caesar salad, which still makes its famous dressing tableside, the same way it did in the 1920s. Ave. Revolución 1059

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