1 Floral, unctuous** Enjingi Graševina 2012** ($13) finishes with a cleansing note of bitter almond. It stands up to rich cuttlefish risotto.

2 If you haven't heard of bogdanjuša, a grape from the Island of Hvar whose name means godsend, you're not alone. Redolent of grapefruit peel and Mediterranean herbs, Carić Bogdanjuša 2012 ($17) is the first wine made from the rare grape to be exported to the U.S. Its citrusy flavor makes it a nice match for whole grilled fish.

3 Malvasia Istriana, one of Friuli's favorite grapes, is named for the rust-colored soil of Istria in northern Croatia, where it originates. Like many of its Italian cousins, Coronica Malvasia 2012 ($20) smells of Meyer lemons and the sweet-scented acacia that blankets the countryside. The long mineral finish pairs nicely with the tang of a brodet.

4 As for reds, the country's most promising grape is babić, according to Cliff Rames, founder of Wines of Croatia. Dusty and smoky on the nose, Bibich R6 Riserva 2010 ($20), made of babić and the local lasina and plavina grapes, tastes like a sunnier Rhône syrah.

5 Suha Punta Tirada Babić 2009 ($39), from the intricately walled "stone lace" vineyards in Primošten, a historic site, reveals the grape's rich, dark, oaky side.

6 The most widely planted Croatian grape is plavac mali (little blue), a purple descendant of zinfandel that thrives on the coast. Brambly Miloš Plavac 2009 ($27) has the aroma of dried figs and chewy mouth-coating tannins. It's a foil for all sorts of game dishes.