New Orleans chef Donald Link (above, center) recommends using a whisk while stirring for better control; it helps break up clumps of flour and incorporate them into the fat. Cook roux in a cast-iron pot, which heats evenly, and stir slowly and continually, reaching into the pot's corners, so the flour doesn't burn.

Stock can also make or break your gumbo. For the best-tasting version, caramelize the meat first, and then skim the fat as the stock cooks. It will become more concentrated, so wait until the end of cooking to season to taste.