As much of a sweet tooth as I have, I’m not always a fan of pecan pie. I feel the same way about it as I do meatloaf: Sure I’ve had it, but except for Mom’s, never the same way twice. The folks at Sugaree’s Bakery in New Albany, Mississippi, though, know their way around a dessert, and I’m pretty sure theirs is the best pecan pie I’ve ever had. The crust, made with butter and lard (so we’re on the right track from the start), is thick and perfectly crunchy, and the pecans (two and a half pounds worth) are big and fresh; together the crust and plentiful pecans are the perfect counterpoint to the sweet filling. Incidentally, I gained confirmation that I wasn’t alone in my thoughts when a coworker took a bite and, between chews, was able to say only, “Oh, my God!”