Rule Breakers

Oxygen is usually the enemy of wine, giving whites a metallic edge and reds an aroma like sawdust. But select wines, deliberately oxidized, transform into something beautiful. I think their complex, savory flavors go great with Thanksgiving dishes. Domaine de Montbourgeau l'Etoile 2010, a chardonnay-savagnin blend from France's Jura region, offers notes of candied walnuts and salinity, which are great with white meat. Made with Lebanese grape varieties, Chateau Musar White 2003 stands up well to dark meat and starches with its distinct tannic structure, macerated stone-fruit flavors, and sage aromatics. Delicately sweet, Primitivo Quiles Fondillón Solera 1948, a Spanish red made from monastrell grapes, boasts dried cherry and roasted nut flavors, making it a natural partner to cranberry sauce.