The dry, earthy, effervescent wines we adore from the five lambrusco appellations in Italy's Emilia-Romagna and Lombardy regions are nothing like the sweet pink stuff that flooded the American market in the 1970s and '80s. Our current favorite, Tenuta Pederzana II Grasparossa 2010, has a wild cherry tartness, pleasing tannins, and a hint of white pepper. It's the perfect match for salumi, fried zucchini, bocconcini, chunky Parmesan, and the other rich bites on an antipasti plate.