One Good Bottle: Absinthe Verte

Many absinthes are harsh, but St. George Spirits Absinthe Verte ($75), made in Alameda, California, is anything but. Our favorite of the many newly available absinthes (U.S. regulations prohibited the spirit's sale until 2007), it owes its unusual mellowness to a base of a brandy (instead of beet alcohol) infused with 11 herbs and spices, including star anise, riccola mint, and tarragon. Contrary to rumor, wormwood, an herb that all absinthes contain, doesn't cause hallucinations or madness, though given the spirit's 120 proof, diluting with water—which turns the liquid opaque and releases its aromatic oils—is a good idea.