The Napa Valley's estimable Louis M. Martini Winery, now part of the Gallo portfolio, has always had a good reputation for its red wines—most notably its Napa cabernets and zinfandels. It has that territory so well staked out, in fact, that the LOUIS M. MARTINI ALEXANDER VALLEY CABERNET SAUVIGNON RESERVE 2001 caught us by surprise. It's just a delicious wine, with leather in the nose (not boot leather but the scent of a suede-lined leather cuff link box) and a rich, velvety texture and plenty of concentrated, faintly chocolatey black cherry fruit.