Frankland Estate Frankland River (Western Australia) Dry Riesling Isolation Ridge Vineyard 2006

Riesling, for too long overlooked by American wine enthusiasts, is enjoying a revival these days, with sales rising steadily as more consumers discover this grape's inimitable charm. That's in part because, though many of the wines taste overtly sugary, the varietal is not inherently sweet. Much of riesling's newfound appeal comes from the discovery that, when fashioned dry, it can be such a wonderful dinner companion.

Australian rieslings exemplify the dry style. Many of the finest examples come from isolated Western Australia, and Frankland Estate's consistently rank among the best there. This 2006 tastes of citrus and apricot, with a steely, mineral-tinged undertone to provide complexity and charm. It's a great partner for shellfish, as well as for summer salads made with chicken, tuna, shrimp and more.