Drink This Now: Tibouren Clos Cibonne Rosé Cuvée Spéciale des Vignettes 2009

Andre Roux was the kind of person who liked doing things the hard way. When he took over his father-in-law's Provençal vineyard near the Mediterranean coast in 1930, he decided to replace the mourvedre grapes that had been the vineyard's mainstay for centuries with tibouren, a native grape known just as much for its susceptibility to disease and low yields as the earthy, beautifully balanced roses it produced. We owe Monsieur Roux a debt of gratitude for his tenacity. Without it, we would have been denied the pleasures of his Tibouren Clos Cibonne Cotes de Provence Rose Cuvee Speciale des Vignettes 2009. Here, tibouren grapes from 80-year-old vines are pressed to a gentle tint, then aged for two years in century-old barrels as a sherry-like yeast layer—fleurette—forms and works its magic. The beach-friendly fruit aromas of rose give way to richer, more savory flavors, with hints of dried cherry and a touch of sea breeze and salted hazelnut. The result is a deeply structured wine that is perfect for the holidays as an accompaniment with Thanksgiving turkey or Christmas goose._