To find good white burgundy at a reasonable price, look beyond the blue-chip areas, to appellations like Santenay, Saint-Aubin, Givry, and Montagny. Case in point: the elegant, almost stately DOMAINE STÉPHANE ALADAME MONTAGNY LES COÈRES 2003. The wine has an unusual spicy nose (about a third of it comes from the aromatic chardonnay muscate clone), medium body, and a lush varietal flavor and an appealing austere finish.