Here's one to befuddle (and delight) your wine-loving friends: an impeccably crafted Alsatian white made from a minor grape variety (sometimes locally called pinot auxerrois—and not related to the red-wine auxerrois, which is actually malbec). ALBERT MANN AUXERROIS VIEILLES VIGNES 2004 is a delicious wine, a little oily and just acidic enough, with a rich apricot aroma and an abundance of juicy fruit, mostly apricots and cantaloupe, in the mouth.