When visiting I'm Italy, or when I'm just ordering wine at an Italian restaurant, I always search for a friulano, a lovely grape varietal produced in the region Friuli-Venezia Giulia in Northern Italy. Unlike tokaji, its sweet Hungarian cousin, the Friulian version of this grape is fermented, or vinified, as a dry wine, though it retains tropical accents on the nose. Friulanos have more texture and body than other aromatic white varietals, and they carry amazing minerality and long finishes, without any oak. The Marco Felluga Collio Friulano from 2007 ($18) goes splendidly with fettuccine alfredo.