As Lorenzo Zonin of the Zonin family described it, this is a "wine of pleasure." A simple, refreshing sparkler, the Zonin Prosecco has a delightful hint of green apple on the nose and palate, without any hint of sweetness that you so often find in other mass-produced Proseccos.

Dry, clean, and crisp, this sparkling wine from Franciacorta in Italy's Lombardy region is made from a blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, and Pinot Blanc. It is a light, young, fresh wine, characterized by notes of pear and stone fruit, with a little hint of spice on the finish.

This salmon-colored rose, a blend of Pinot Noir (70 percent) and Chardonnay (30 percent), is a very well-balanced bubbly. All of the components — the ripe red fruit, floral, and citrus notes; the slight flavor of yeast that is so characteristic of Champagnes; the steely minerality — come together elegantly, with no element overpowering another. Its delicate bubbles, or mousse, linger from start to the very long finish, braced by the wine's lovely acidity.

Gosset makes some of the most elegant, restrained Champagnes I've ever tasted. The house refrains from any use of malolactic fermentation, so it avoids the weight that oak might impart. The Grande Reserve is vibrant, its very delicate, airy mousse singing from the glass, and the lightness extends to the nose, with hints of marzipan and floral sweetness. The depth and maturity of this wine emerge on the tongue with full-bodied force, with flavors ranging from candied fruits to roasted chestnuts. Excellent for any traditional New Year's meal or elegant toast.