Angelo Brocato’s Cannoli

A trip to New Orleans can restore your faith in many things: jazz, Creole cooking, the human spirit—and, not least in my book, the cannoli. A single visit to Angelo Brocato's, a century-old sweets parlor in MidCity, will redeem a hundred soggy, overstuffed versions of this Sicilian treat. Each crisp-fried shell is filled to order with fresh, sweetened ricotta, candied citrus rind, and semisweet chocolate chips. The ends of the pastry are dipped in bright green chopped pistachios, and the cannoli is served on a doily-covered plate. Every time I taste one I take comfort in the fact that some things in this world remain as wonderful as they've always been.