There is a place off the coast of Brittany, on Belle-Île, called Le Contre-Quai. The chef-owner, Lucien, opens in late June, only for the summer season; the rest of the year he hunts, fishes, and spends time with family and friends. After my morning jog, I love to go and visit him and choose the fish he'll prepare for us in the evening. He is an extremely talented chef. I look forward to going back this summer. —Pierre Gagnaire, Pierre Gagnaire, Paris