Postcard: Local Flavors at Beausoleil

Two years ago, chef Nathan Gresham endeavored to bring his adopted home of Baton Rouge in line with the nation's budding farm-to-table movement. His "Southern-French-Creole" bistro sources from all corners of South Louisiana. When I visited, he prepared for us his favorite dish: pork cheeks and belly confit from pigs raised in Kentwood, located out east near the Mississippi border; Blanca Isabel purple rice originating from Rayne, in the opposite direction; and chow-chow made from green tomatoes grown right here in Baton Rouge. —Rien Fertel