Postcard: Farmer Craig Black at Houmas House Plantation and Gardens

For thirty-five years Craig Black has tended the thirty-eight acres of gardens, greenhouses, ponds, and oaks of Houmas House, the crown jewel of Louisiana's River Road plantation trail. Located on the Mississippi River's eastbank, midway between New Orleans and Baton Rouge, Houmas House and its restaurant Latil's Landing have thrived under the direction of Chef Jeremy Langlois. The chef and the farmer work together to develop dishes through experimenting with heirloom fruits, vegetables, and herbs. When I asked Craig Black to describe his life with plants, he rhapsodized on asparagus—the shoots, leaves, and soil—in such a sensuous style that I know my own next spear will be my first all over again. —Rien Fertel