At Chez Denise in Paris, Steak Tartare arrives at the table already mixed, but we also love the drama of mixing our own: Arrange some finely chopped raw beef on a buttered square of dense black bread, sprinkle it with coarse salt and cracked black pepper, then lay some rings of purple onion on top. Add a few plump, briny capers, an anchovy filet or two, and chopped parsley. Crown this jewel with a raw egg yolk nestled in half an eggshell. Then tip the yolk out of its shell and watch it ooze, slice through the onion-topped beef, and sop up the yolk with the bread—worth the risk!