Preparing a Stuffed Veal Breast

Pino Cinquemani began working in his father's butcher shop in Sicily when he was only 9. In 1991, he took over the Manhattan shop where he had worked for 16 years. Here are a few of his tips:

A. CUTTING THE POCKET For stuffed breast of veal, lay breast flat on board. With one hand on top of meat, make a horizontal slice into center of breast with the tip of your knife. Continue to cut, pulling top half of breast back as you go, making a deep pocket.

B. TRUSSING WITH STRING Pinch stuffed pocket closed. Using a trussing needle threaded with kitchen string, begin at one end and sew up pocket. Tie ends before cooking.

C. TRUSSING WITH SKEWERS Veal pocket (and matambre) may be trussed with metal skewers (the type sold for trussing poultry). Pinch meat together. Thread a skewer down through both layers of meat, then back up again. Repeat with the next skewer until pocket is closed (or matambre is secure).