At Arpege, chef Alain Passard uses fresh bay leaves (available in your grocery's herb section) to perfume the scallops while they cook—and keeps them in place for presentation (see Grillade de Coquilles St-Jacques au Laurier recipe). Cut center vein out of leaf, dividing leaf into two pieces. In each half-leaf, cut a ¼'' notch about ½'' from each end. Hook two notched half-leaves together at one end, then cinch them around the scallop like a belt. Hook leaves together at the other end to secure.