Gravlax with Blinis (Cured Salmon with Thin Pancakes)

For the gravlax: Combine dill, salt, pepper, and sugar in a small bowl and stir together. Remove any bones from the salmon with tweezers or small pliers. Place fish flat in a long glass baking dish. Rub salt mixture into flesh, then sprinkle aquavit or cognac over fish. Cover loosely with plastic wrap, then place a slightly smaller baking dish directly on top of fish. Weigh it down with unopened cans. Refrigerate for 3 to 4 days.

Rinse fish in cold water and pat dry. Use a long, sharp slicing knife to slice thinly; refrigerate until ready to serve.

For the blinis: Beat eggs lightly in a large bowl, then mix in sour cream. In another bowl, combine flour, salt, and baking soda. Add to egg mixture, and whisk until smooth.

Heat a 12" nonstick skillet over medium heat. Spoon batter into pan to form small 2–3" rounds. Cook, turning once, until golden brown on both sides, about 2 minutes. Transfer to serving platter, top with slices of gravlax. Dollop with crème fraîche and sprinkle with chives before serving.