Spit-Roasted Kid Goat

Build a hot fire using wood or a combination of wood and hardwood charcoal in the center of a large outdoor oven or other grilling area. Set up rotisserie so that goat will hang over the bed of the fire to cook.

Meanwhile, lay goat out on a large clean surface covered with a large sheet of plastic. Pierce goat with the rotisserie rod from the buttocks to the neck, through the body cavity. Fasten goat tightly to rod through neck, loin, and buttocks with heavy-gauge stainless steel wire. Pull front and back legs up to rod, then fasten securely. (You must fasten the goat very tightly to the rod so that it doesn't ''spin'' while it rotates and cooks). Rub goat with some of the oil and season generously with salt and pepper. Stuff half the rosemary inside chest cavity, then season cavity with salt and pepper. Wire cavity closed in several places.

Tie remaining 10 branches rosemary around the end of a stick about 16'' long with kitchen string to create a rosemary ''brush'' to baste goat with olive oil.

When fire has died down, spread embers out to the sides of the grilling area, so that the thickest parts of the goat will be over the fire, leaving only a thin layer of coals in the middle (where the thinnest part of the goat will be). Place goat over embers, attaching rod to rotisserie. Roast goat, basting occasionally with rosemary brush dipped in remaining olive oil mixed with a little salt. Add more wood or charcoal to fire as necessary. Goat is done when well browned and no blood or juices run from the legs when pierced with a knife, 2 1⁄2-3 hours.

Remove goat from heat and set aside to rest for 15 minutes. Remove wires and slide goat off rotisserie rod. Using a sharp knife and cleaver, cut into serving pieces. Serve with scallions and more salt, if you like.