True veal noisettes are pieces of the loin; this imaginative dish mimics them with long-cooked veal shanks tied in leeks.
Ingredients
- 4 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
- 1 (5-lb.) veal shank, cut into 4–5 pieces
- Salt and freshly ground white pepper
- 3 carrots, peeled and coarsely chopped
- 1 medium yellow onion, peeled and coarsely chopped
- 3 shallots, peeled and coarsely chopped
- 1⁄2 cup white wine
- 12 black peppercorns
- 2 Tbsp. heavy cream
- 5 Tbsp. unsalted butter
- 2 long, unblemished leek leaves, blanched and halved lengthwise
- 1⁄2 lb. assorted wild mushrooms such as chanterelles, fairy rings, or cèpes, cleaned and trimmed
Instructions
Step 1
Preheat oven to 300°. Heat 3 tbsp. of the oil in a large ovenproof pot over medium-high heat. Generously season veal shanks with salt and pepper, then brown, 3–5 minutes per side. Transfer to a plate. Add carrots, onions, and shallots, and sauté for 2 minutes. Add wine, scraping up browned bits stuck to bottom of pot, then add 3 cups water and peppercorns. Return shanks and any juices to pot, cover, and braise in the oven until meat is very tender, about 3 hours.
Step 2
Remove pot from oven and transfer shanks to a plate. Strain broth through a sieve into a medium saucepan, pressing on vegetables with the back of a spoon. Reduce broth over high heat to 1 cup, about 20 minutes. Reduce heat to low, add cream, and simmer for 2 minutes. Strain sauce into a clean saucepan and whisk in all but 1 tbsp. of the butter, 1 small piece at a time. Keep sauce warm over very low heat.
Step 3
Meanwhile, remove and discard bones and gristle from meat, then separate meat into small pieces. Assemble "medallions" by dividing meat into four portions, forming each into a circle with pieces standing upright and wrapping each with a leek leaf. Transfer carefully to a heat-proof plate. Cover with plastic wrap, set plate on a rack set over a pan of simmering water, cover, and steam until heated through, 5–10 minutes.
Step 4
Meanwhile, heat remaining 1 tbsp. butter and 1 tbsp. oil in a medium nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Add mushrooms and sauté until tender, 2–3 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper. To serve, divide warm sauce between 4 plates. Place 1 medallion on top of sauce on each plate, then arrange mushrooms next to each medallion.
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