Lobster Ravioli in Light Coral Cream

Fill a medium pot with water to a depth of 1'' and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Add lobster, cover, and cook until just cooked through, about 8 minutes. Drain. When lobster is cool enough to handle, remove coral (roe) from body cavity, and meat from tail and claws, working over a bowl to catch any juices. Chop shells into pieces and add to juices, then set bowl aside. Cut lobster meat into 1'' pieces. Transfer meat and coral to 2 separate bowls, cover, and refrigerate.

Melt 2 tbsp. of the butter with the oil in a large deep skillet over medium-high heat. Add reserved shells and juices and cook, stirring, for 2 minutes. Add onions, carrots, and tarragon and cook, stirring often, until vegetables begin to soften, about 5 minutes. Add cognac and carefully ignite with a kitchen match. When flame dies out, stir in tomato paste, add fish stock, cover, and simmer for 30 minutes. Strain sauce through a sturdy sieve into a medium saucepan, pressing on solids with the back of a spoon. Set pan over medium heat and reduce sauce to 1⁄2 cup, about 45 minutes. Reduce heat to low, add cream, and simmer for 2 minutes. Strain sauce into a clean saucepan and whisk in remaining 6 tbsp. butter, 1 small piece at a time. Whisk in reserved coral. Keep sauce warm over very low heat.

Bring a small pot of water to a simmer over medium heat. Add wonton skins a few at a time, cooking just until they turn supple, white, and translucent, about 30 seconds. Transfer to a bowl of cold water as done, then pat dry on paper towels. Lay 1 wonton skin on a lightly greased heat-proof plate, arrange a few pieces of lobster on one half of it, then fold over to drape loosely. Repeat with remaining wonton skins and lobster.

Cover ravioli with plastic wrap. Set plate on a rack over a pan of simmering water, cover, and steam until heated through, about 5 minutes. Divide ravioli between 4 plates and drizzle with coral cream.