Julskinka (Christmas Ham)

This recipe was developed by Marcus Jernmark, chef at Aquavit in New York City, as part of the restaurant's traditional julbord spread for Christmas. The ham is cooks in an aromatic soup, then glazed and topped with breadcrumbs. The crucial step is letting the ham come to room temperature while keeping it in its broth: "That keeps it moist," Jernmark explains. "When the ham cooks, it loses its ability to hold onto liquid, but as it cools, it starts to soak it up again. It's like resting a steak after you cook it." In Sweden, the ham traditionally would be served accompanied by dishes made from other parts of the same pig. "A traditional feature on the Christmas table, right next to the ham, is the head cheese. You cook the head from the pig until the meat starts to loosen, you pick it up and make a pate using the gelatin from the stock; once it's set, slice it at the table and eat it with the ham." Here, instead of head cheese, Jernmark suggests accompanying the ham with a rich, grainy mustard.