Every year while I was growing up, at some point before the holidays a large box would arrive on my family's doorstep from my aunt in Wisconsin. Opening the box, we would discover a marvelous assortment of variously sized, shaped, and colored packages—not presents or toys, but Wisconsin cheese: squeaky-fresh cheddar curds, colby jack, mozzarella string cheese, wedges flavored with dill, salami, bacon, ham, or cranberries. And each year, one of the first of the treats we'd finish was the cheese fudge.