Arriving at a market in Bangkok, I'll easily bypass the noodles and grilled meats if there's the steamed fish curry custard called hor mok for sale. A banana-leaf cup cradles each portion of fish mousseline, perfumed with kaffir lime leaf and capped with coconut cream. Citrusy herbs and palm sugar play off the salty fish sauce, and the egg binds everything into a luscious, silky whole.