Red Boat Fish Sauce

You used to have to go to the Vietnamese island of Phu Quoc to get the pungent, deep-burgundy, supremely rich nuoc mam (fish sauce) that is considered the country's finest. Now Red Boat Fish Sauce is exporting the first pressing—potent stuff, made from the freshest anchovies and salt—which possesses an intense concentration of protein and flavor. I use it in Viet fare but also add it to pasta sauce, stews, and Caesar salad dressing for a rush of umami goodness.