This cheese, from Ferme de Jouvence (Farm of Rejuvenation), a small dairy near Versailles, France, seems to come from another world, so different it is from most other brie we know. It has an assertive mushroomy flavor, with notes of garlic and hay, and its body is wonderfully luscious and silken. It's what brie was meant to be.
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_Brie Fermier, $18.99/lb at Murray's Cheese; tel: 888/692-4339__