I spent last week eating my way through Portugal. We were mostly in Lisbon and Porto, but there was one spectacularly memorable day trip out to Sintra, a fairy-tale town tucked in a valley 40 minutes west of Lisbon, surrounded by dizzyingly steep hills capped off with ancient castles and crazy, ornate private homes. Sintra is known for their queijadas_, tartlets whose paper-thin pastry crusts are filled with a mixture of egg, sugar, and cinnamon-spiked queso fresco. This one is from Fabrica das Verdadeiras Queijadas da Sapa, a bakery founded in 1756 that produces some of the best queijadas in town._ —Helen Rosner