Redneck Cheddar (Veldhuizen Family Farms, Dublin) A raw cows' milk cheddar that's washed in Texas's own Saint Arnold's beer and cave-aged, this sharp cheese has a mild, malty sweetness.

Hoja Santa Goat Cheese (Mozzarella Company, Dallas) This fresh goat cheese is wrapped in the leaves of a Mexican herb called hoja santa, which imparts an anise-like flavor.

Sainte Maure (Pure Luck Farm and Dairy, Dripping Springs) Creamy and slightly ripened, this French-style goat cheese has a tang that evokes a cross between fresh chevre and Roquefort.

**Azaderos **(Licon Dairy, San Elizario) The Licon family makes this fresh cheese, typical of those from Chihuahua, Mexico, in thin, tortilla-like sheets. It melts beautifully in tortas and quesadillas.

Brazos Valley Havarti (Brazos Valley Cheese, Waco) This zesty raw-milk havarti is smoked with pecan shells, which give the cheese a pleasing, slightly woodsy taste.

Fresh Campesino (Lucky Layla Farms, Garland) This springy, salty cows' milk cheese is often served grilled or pan-fried but is also delicious straight out of the package.

Baby Blue (CKC Farms, Blanco) Cheese maker Chrissy Omo is only 21, but she has already earned a name for her company with this buttery and delicately funky blue made from goats' milk.

Caciotta with Ancho Chile (Mozzarella Company, Dallas) Ancho chiles give this earthy goats' milk caciotta a subtle heat that makes it an addictive snack.