MAKES ABOUT 1 CUP

Traditional recipes for tartar sauce use homemade mayonnaise, but high-quality store-bought mayo yields good results, too.

3 cornichons or gherkins
2-3 tsp. nonpareil capers
1 cup mayonnaise
Juice of 1⁄2 lemon
1 tsp. pickling brine from jar of cornichons
1 tsp. pickling brine from jar of capers
Salt and freshly ground pepper, white or black

1. Finely chop cornichons or gherkins and transfer to a medium mixing bowl. Chop nonpareil capers and add to bowl with cornichons.

2. Add mayonnaise, lemon juice, and pickling brine from cornichons and capers. Mix with a wooden spoon until well-blended. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

3. Adjust seasonings with a little more mayonnaise, lemon juice, or either of the pickling brines, if you like.