MAKES ABOUT 1/2 CUP

Escoffier made sauce tartare with hard-cooked egg yolks, oil and vinegar, salt and pepper, and chives or scallions. At the Watermen's Inn in Crisfield, this is how it done.

1/4 cup mayonnaise
2 tsp. pickle relish
1/2 tsp. dried tarragon
2 tsp. fresh lemon juice
1/2 tsp. chopped capers

1. Combine mayonnaise, relish, tarragon, lemon juice, and capers in a small bowl, mix well, then refrigerate until  needed.