(Tagliatelle "Enbogonè")

SERVES 4 – 6

The beans in this dish are probably called enbogonè, "snailed", because they're cooked as the gastropods are. It is best made with fresh, not dried, beans; fresh cranberry beans are a good substitute for fresh borlottis.

6 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
1 medium yellow onion, peeled and chopped
1 2 1/2–3-oz. piece pancetta
2 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped
1 branch each fresh rosemary, sage, and yarrow (optional), tied
 together with kitchen twine
1 cup canned crushed tomatoes
3 cups shelled fresh cranberry beans (from 1 1/2–2 lbs. pods)
Salt
1 lb. fresh tagliatelle
Freshly ground black pepper
2 oz. monte veronese cheese(optional), grated

1. Heat 4 tbsp. of the oil in a heavy medium pot over medium heat. Add onions and pancetta and cook until onions are soft, about 5 minutes. Add garlic, cook briefly, then add bundle of herbs and tomatoes and cook for 1–2 minutes. Add beans and 3 cups cold water and bring to a simmer. Reduce heat to maintain an active but gentle simmer and cook, stirring occasionally, until beans are soft, 1–1 1/2 hours.

2. Remove and discard herb bundle and pancetta from pot. Mash about one-third of the bean mixture with a potato masher to thicken sauce and stir well into pot. Season to taste with salt.

3. Cook pasta in a large pot of salted boiling water until just tender, about 4 minutes. Drain and divide between 4-6 bowls. Spoon bean sauce over pasta, drizzle with some of the ramining oil, and season to taste with pepper. Serve with grated monte veronese cheese, if you like.