SERVES 4

The pale yellow, thin-skinned sweet potato and the moister, orange-fleshed American "yam" (which is not really a yam, but another kind of sweet potato) both work well for these alternatives to conventional french fries.

3 lbs. sweet potatoes or yams
Vegetable oil
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper (optional)

1. Peel sweet potatoes with a vegetable peeler or sharp knife (fries may also be made with skins on), then trim ends. Cut each sweet potato into 8–10 thin wedges about 4'' long. Set aside.

2. Preheat oven to lowest setting. Heat 2'' oil in a deep, heavy-bottomed skillet over medium-high heat. When oil is hot (about 325°), fry sweet potatoes in small batches, turning frequently, for 3 minutes per batch or until golden and crisp. Remove from oil with tongs or a slotted spoon. Drain on paper towels and keep warm in oven while you fry remaining sweet potatoes. Serve hot, sprinkled with salt and, if desired, pepper.