No dish showcases shrimp as simply and elegantly as shrimp cocktail. For the sauce, put 3⁄4 cup ketchup, 3 tbsp. drained prepared horseradish, 2 tbsp. fresh lemon juice, 2 tsp. worcestershire sauce, 8–10 drops Tabasco, and a pinch of salt into a medium bowl and stir well. Cover and refrigerate. Put 2 cups white wine, 1 tbsp. black peppercorns, 6 sprigs fresh thyme, 1 small bunch flat-leaf parsley, 1 sliced yellow onion, 1 chopped rib celery, 1 dried bay leaf, and 2 quarts water into a large pot. Season the liquid generously with salt and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer for 30 minutes. Add 16 jumbo shell-on shrimp (about 1 pound), such as Gulf of Mexico brown, and cook, stirring occasionally, until just cooked through, 2–3 minutes. Drain shrimp and transfer to a sheet pan and spread into a single layer; let cool to room temperature. Refrigerate shrimp until completely chilled, then peel them. Divide cocktail sauce between 4 cocktail glasses and perch 4 shrimp along the rim of each glass. Serves 4.